REC ANSWERS 23 VIETNAM THE INTERNET TRAVEL GUIDE FAQ PART 2 5
From: "http://www.pmgeiser.ch, Peter M. Geiser"
Subject: Vietnam - The Internet Travel Guide (FAQ) (part 2/5)
Date: 9 Jul 2003 22:40:42 +0200


Archive-name: travel/vietnam-guide/part2
Url: http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam Posting-Frequency: quarterly
VIETNAM - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide
Located in South East Asia, Vietnam starts to emerge as a major tourist attraction. Vietnam has two main cities, the political capital Hanoi and the economic capital Ho Chi Minh City (also known as Saigon). Apart from these cities, Vietnam's countryside also offers many beautiful attractions.

Places An Khe Buon Ma Thuot Cantho Cat Ba Island Central Highland Chau Doc Cholon Chua Huong Con Dao Cu Chi Cuc Phuong National Parc Dakto / Tanh Canh Dalat Danang Do Son Dong Ha Haiphong Halong Bay Hanoi Ho Chi Minh City Hoa Lu Hoi An Hue Kontum Lao Bao Long Xuyen Mekong Delta Myson Mytho Nha Trang Ninh Binh Phan Rang Phan Thiet Phong Nha Caves Phu Quoc Pleiku Quang Nam Quang Ngai Rach Gia Saigon Sapa Tay Ninh Vat Sat Tourist Parc Vinh Long Vinh Moc Vung Tau
Literature and Other Information Associated with Amazon.
Country Guides Maps Language Travel Reports History and Politics Biographies Literature Movies For recommended books, please check out the web version at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam
General Information Geography Map of Vietnam Climate People Events Visa Embassies Border Crossing Money Mail Telephone Internet Access Hotels Food Diving Health
Transportation Flying Train Roads Bus Minibus Car Motorcycle Bicycles Cyclos Tours Travel Guides Boats
Copyright (c) 1995 - 2003, Peter M. Geiser
http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch
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BOOKS
For books on Vietnam, please have a look at the online version at http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam
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HOA LU
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/hoalu.htm
(Lars) Among the more scenic areas I would recommend is the vicinity of the old capitol of Hoa Lu (I think the first emperors lived there), just outside Ninh Binh. The landscape shows the same type of sharp-rising cliffs/mountains as in Ha Long, although here you'll find small rice-fields in between. Take a boat ride along the small rivers (they actually pass under the mountain in a few places); go exploring caves (I didn't have time); or just stroll down the dirt road between the cliffs. It's beautiful! Close by are other places well worth a visit:
Bich Dong pagoda and Tam Cuc.

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HOI AN
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/hoian.htm
Hoi An is a beautiful old city which is nearly undamaged from the wars. It is one of the Unesco World Heritage Sites.

Once called Faifo, it was the most important port of Vietnam during the 16th century. Due to the monsoons, many trading vessels (Chinese, Thai, Dutch, Portuguese and even Japanese) had to stop for a while. Coming from the north, the Chinese and Japanese sailed south in spring, and had to wait for the autumn monsoon to return. The Thai,
the Dutch and the Portuguese used the opposite pattern to sail. During the long time of waiting, sometimes four months, they would rent lodgings and trading houses, preferably on the waterfront. Some even went as far as to stay year-round to take full advantage of the trade with the Vietnamese.

Many merchants bought houses to conduct trading activities all year round. The old houses one can visit are beautiful. There are quite a few open to the (paying) public. On the left side of the market there are some silk shops. They only sell the silk, but it is possible to let them tailor a shirt, a dress, trousers, or whatever you wish for you. Prices are USD 2.5 - 4 per meter of silk, to tailor a silk shirt costs around USD 4.5 (including the buttons which sell for USD 1!).

Sights
There is a ticket for VND 50'000 that includes admission to "1 of 3
museums, 1 of 3 Assembly Halls, 1 of 4 Old Houses and either the Japanese Bridge or Quan Cong's Temple". Note: The Japanese Bridge included on the list is accessible for free.

Especially recommended is the Tran Family Temple, at the junction of Le Loi and Phan Chu Trinh. The family is very welcoming and very knowledgeable about the function and history of the temple.

Outside of Hoi An, there are many Japanese tombs. Rent a bicycle or a motorbike to get to them. On the way you will meet dozens of children eager to direct you to the tombs. Of course, they expect some money for that service.

There are many impressive dikes around Hoi An.

A good trip is cycling through the rice paddies down to the beach.

Transportation
You can rent bicylces for VND 5000.

(John) I would suggest renting a bicycle in Hoi An and going on one of the small dirt roads into the nearby villages and around the rice fields. There is a very nice beach nearby that is an easy 5 km bicycle ride away.

Hotels
There are many hotels and mini-hotels in Hoi An. If you arrive by bus,
you'll be hassled by kids that know exactly what hotels have vacancies and how much these hotels are. They will guide you to a hotel of your choice.

Another one is the Thanh Binh, with nice clean rooms with fan and bath for USD 8 and 10. Unfortunately, the staff could drive you crazy. They were terribly notorious, always screaming at you telling you how beautiful you looked, and then trying to sell you a tour, a transport somewhere or a tailor.

Close to the market, at 73 Phan Boi Chan Street, is the Huy Hoang Hotel. It is directly at the river and has a terrace overlooking the river. Doubles cost USD 12 to 15, including breakfast.

The Thien Trung Hotel at 63 Phan Dinh Phung has large rooms with aircon and hot water for USD 18. Rooms without aircon are USD 15.

Ther Sea Star Hotel is located at Nguyen Duy Hieu Street.

Hai Yen Hotel, opened in 1997, has rooms for USD from 38. http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/other_cities/other_cities_hotel_byPrice.asp

Hoi An Hotel, has rooms for USD from 73. It is the biggest hotel in town. http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/other_cities/other_cities_hotel_byPrice.asp

Hoi An Beach Hotel, has rooms for USD from 38. Under the same management as Hoi An Hotel.
http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/other_cities/other_cities_hotel_byPrice.asp

Vinh Hung 2 Hotel, has rooms for USD from 29. http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/other_cities/other_cities_hotel_byPrice.asp

Restaurants
Very popular among tourists is the Ly Cafeteria 22 at 22 Nguyen Hue Street.

Very famous for its food, especially its seafood, is the Cafe des Amis at 52 Bach Dang Street. For VND 40'000 you get a menu with 5 different dishes. If you eat there for the third time you will be considered a special guest, and get a whole duck for two persons.

(Lotta and Johan) The nicest cafe in all Vietnam, in our opinion, was Dzu Dzi, opposite to Thanh Binh on 12 Le Loi St. It was a family business with extremely friendly service and nice food. The kind of place where you can sit all day sipping lemon juice and banana shakes,
watching people, writing postcards and chatting to the owners.

The Lac Vien Restaurant on Phan Chu Trinh Street is recommended for the barbeque beef and the cuttlefish and shrimp soup.

(Matthew) A good place is Jean's Cafe and Restaurant at 48 Phan Dinh Phung Street.

(David and Loc) Don't go to Pho Hoi I & II hotels in Hoi An city in Vietnam (another names : Faifoo I & II hotels) ! We had serious troubles with them.
We had booked a room by phone in Pho Hoi I hotel, asking for one of the best rooms. They suggested to go to Pho Hoi II hotel, but this was not interesting for us as it is far from the old city center. So we clearly asked a room in Pho Hoi I. They accepted, with the price of the best room (17$ US). But when we arrived in the city at 3pm, they drove us directly without any explanation to Pho Hoi II. As we refused, they drove us to Pho Hoi I. While we were checking in at the reception desk, our luggages were taken in a dirty room without windows in the ground floor, in the lower category (normal price :
8$US according to another Australian customer encountered there).
Unfortunately, we discovered the room only after giving our passports to the reception. We complained but there was no way to get a better room. We had then to spend one hour looking for another hotel near the old city center. When we came back 1 hour later to get back our luggages and our passports, they refused unless being paid for the night (17 $ US for 1 hour). They loudly insulted us as we refused to pay. They even threatened us. At the end of the argument, we had to pay 8 $ US (without receipt of course!). It was not a problem of language as we speak Vietnamese, French and English.

(Lotta and Johan) Warning: We rented bicycles in Hoi An, and went to the beach. Highly recommended, but do NOT rent a chair or have lunch at the first place to the left as you get down on the beach! They ripped us off. We orded lunch from their menu without asking for the price. Stupid, you might say, and sure it was, but after several weeks in Vietnam we were tired of being paranoid all the time. We ordered grilled prawns and they charged 9000 dong (almost one dollar) for EACH prawn! One serving of squid cost 50000 dong (4$50). We argued with the owner, of course, and after a while, he gave us some of the money back. The little girl waitress came after us later, and said she felt bad about it. Of course, she didn't get any of the money.

Shopping
Hoi An is very famous for its silk. The place to look for silk sellers is the market. They will of course tailor silk to anything you like.

(Matthew) I had my silk made at Tho No. 7 in the Hoi An market. When you go to the market, the silk makers are hidden within the market.
Look for them, particularly this one. The quality of the sewing is extremely high, and I was very pleased with the finished product.
Another silk store recommended is Nguyet Thu at 164 Tran Phu. Ask for Quy. She is very sharp and a true business force. She will negotiate more than other store owners. phone: 861585

(Lotta and Johan) Clothes and silk! There are loads of tailors. We tried Thong, next to Dzu Dzi cafe on 16 Le Loi St. She was nice and did a good job. So did Yaly, next to the market on 27 Tran Quy Cap St., but you had to be patient and really tell them when the result wasn't as you expected. They had a wider collection of fabrics than Thong, Prices?
Really cheap, 7$ for a raw silk blouse or a dress in Chinese silk, 4$ for a pair of wide Vietnamese style trousers in Chinese silk etc. I spent a large part of my travel money there!

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HUE
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/hue.htm
Hue was the national capital from 1802 to 1945. 13 emperors of the Nguyen dynasty lived in the forbidden city. Today, its monuments are a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Sights
The main attraction, the Imperial City is mostly bombed flat (one of the haviest battles of the American War took place in Hue during the Tet Offensive in 1968). The few remaining buildings (five if I remember correctly) all have been converted to souvenir shops. The most impressive sight is the royal citadel. Constructed in 1805, it is 20 meter across, has 6 meter high walls and is surrounded by a moat.
The citadel has 10 gates: An Hoa, Chanh Tay, Dong Ba, Hau, Huu, Ke Trai, Nha Do, Sap, Sgan, and Thuong Tu.

A little outside of the city are several old tombs from former emperors. The admission costs USD 5 each! As an alternative try to walk around the tomb to find any open gates where nobody charges admission, but this will not always work. Since all of them look similar, it is not worth to visit all of them, one or two will suffice. The nicer tombs are the Tomb of Minh Mang and Tu Duc Tomb.
The Thieu Tri tomb has no walls around it, so it can be visited for free.

Most hotels offer beautiful boat trips to the tombs for USD 5. This boat trip is often combined with the Thien Mu Pagoda (also known as Linh Mu Pagoda). Some cafes offer boat tours that take you to Thien Mu Pagoda, one temple and three tombs, and even provide lunch for USD 3.
Try to be at the pagoda at sunset.

(Michael) The Minh Mang tomb is poorly preserved, but the setting is beautiful. Tu Duc is in better shape, but the layout is not as nice. It is a long, long walk from the river to Tu Duc. Thien Mu is worth it if just to see the famous car (see LP).

(John) Hue has brought in the new year (1995) with raising their prices on all their attractions from an expensive $3.50 to an outrageous $5.00 per foreigner. The local prices are $0.50. The tombs are really not that great, A fair price is $1-2 to see them. I would visit one tomb only since many of them are very similar. At the Imperial City I joined two other people to hire a guide for $3. His English was excellent and the guide was well worth it.

(John) The tombs are on the outskirts of town and are reachable by boat for $4/person if organized through the Morin. A boat can be hired privately for $12. The tombs can also be reached by bicycle. Upon visiting one of the tombs I was charged 0.50 each way to cross a river by boat with my bicycle.

(Michael) To get across the river to the Dong Ba market, check for private boats at the Huong Giang end of the Dap Da bridge and river taxis at the other end. Be sure to negotiate the price before getting on the boat. Tourist price seems to be about a dollar to get across the river.

(Michael) Cruises both directions on the Perfume River are well worth it.
We engaged a 'dragon boat' for $12 a day. One day we went out to Thuan An beach for the day. Another day we went the other way to visit a few tombs. Both trips were very nice and much enjoyed by my daughter.
Negotate directly with the boat owner for the best price. Again, try getting a boat near the Dap Da bridge, or just down the river from the floating restaurant.

The Hon Chen temple costs VND 20000.

Transportation
Hue's airport has been reopened. The airport bus into the city costs USD 1. Tell the driver where you would like to go and chances are he will take you directly there. He will also know good guest houses.

There are bicycles for rent at VND 6000 - 7000.

Hotels
Century Riverside Hotel , 49 Le Loi StreetRates: USD 44-193, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hue/Century_Riverside_Hotel_Hue.asp

Dong Da Hotel , 15 Ly Thuong Kiet StreetRates: USD 24-47, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hue/Dong_Da_Hotel.asp

Hotel Saigon Morin, 30 Le Loi St.,Thua Thien-Hue ProvinceRates: USD 78-370, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hue/Hotel_Saigon_Morin.asp
The Saigon Morin Hotel has a lot of history but something that most travellers don't know is that the Morin and the streets and buildings around it, were the setting for some dramatic events during the battle for Hue city in the communist Tet Offensive in February 1968.
At the time, the Morin housed Hue University. Just down and across the street (away from the river) is a walled complex that is currently a police or military site. In 1968 this complex was the MACV (Military Assisstance Command Vietnam) compound, a US military command center.
That building was the only significant US position in Hue that was not captured by the communists in the Tet Offensive. Actually there were not many US troops inside Hue at all prior to 68. The MACV compound was mostly an adminstrative site. But, with reinforcements from Phu Bai just down the highway, it did become the command centre for the recapture of Hue. One of the first buildings recaptured from the communists was Hue University (the Morin Hotel). US troops fought a running battle for the Morin, clearing the building room by room,
mostly by tossing hand grenades. Once the Morin was in US hands,
motars were set up in the courtyard, and it became a command post supporting attacks against other buildings to the west, such as the heavily fortified Treasury building (now a VietCom Bank).
The book "Fire in the Streets" by Eric Hammel, details the battle for Hue, and includes enough detail, maps and photos to allow you to track the progress of the conflict, street by street and building by building. It's not for everyone but reading it can add a new dimension to your visit to the city (cheaper than a visit to the tombs), and may add a poignant edge to your stay at the Morin.

Huong Giang Hotel , 51 Le LoiRates: USD 44-178, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hue/Huong_Giang_Hotel.asp
The Huang Giang Hotel was the MACV BOQ in 1968. Bullet holes can still be seen in the glass in the stairway on the Western side of the old building.
(Michael) So, we moved out and into the Huan Giang Hotel on the river. This cost USD 80 for a huge room with satellite TV, a good buffet breakfast and a two bed room. The river front restaurant at the Huang Giang is (confirming LP) excellent and a very good value. The sunset view is great. The hotel itself fills up every night with groups of French tourists doing Vietnam in a week or some such thing.

Ngo Quyen Hotel, 9 Ngo Quyen StreetRates: USD 148-178, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hue/Ngo_Quyen_Hotel.asp

Restaurant
The Ang Tae just next to the Imperial City has a beatiful garden.

(Michael) The Song Huong floating restaurant is more expensive and not as good as the Huan Giang. Plus, they always practice the 'cold towel'
rip-off. If you eat there, have the bill read to you and make sure you are not paying for food, drinks or towells that you didn't use.

(Michael) A nice restaurant near the Citadel: Royal City Restaurant (Quoc Huy), 43 Dinh Cong Trang St, near Hien Nohn gate.

Hien's Canteen just opposite the Dong Loi Hotel is a friendly place,
perfect for breakfast or a quick snack.

The Lac Thanh at 6 Dinh Tien Hoang Street is packed with tourists.
While it used to be good, the success with all the tourists caused the prices to rise and the quality to drop. Not recommended anymore.

In the Tinh Gia Vien at Le Thanh Ton, Madame Ha prepares unforgettable dishes in a bonsai garden. Prices for a menu are USD 7 to 8. Phone in the morning to reserve for the evening. Tel 822243.

A nice place to sip che (tea) is between 13 and 15 Hung Vuong. Only 10 m from the main street, this tea-house is very popular with Hanoi's youth.

There are several cafes on the east bank of the Pearl River. The best seem to be Le Loi 3 and Xuan Trang, 14 Hung Vuong ("Should be in the Lonely Planet" on the illuminated sign!)

Shopping
There are silk paintings for less than USD 1.

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KONTUM
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/kontum.htm
Kontum is a small city north of Pleiku. There are many montagnards,
mainly Banhar, but also Rengao, Jarrai, Xedang, Jolung, Rade, Ede and Jet.

Sights
There is a nice French cathedral. On Nguyen Hue Street is a large church that is more than 120 years. About 1 km past the French Church is the famous Montagnard Church. Originally built in 1913,
it was restored in 1995. There are several unique montagnard sculptures made from tree roots and a replica of a communal house,
which has an extremely steep thatched roof. The central stained glass window was constructed by Mark in 1995 while he was working as a voluntary teacher there. There is a rong just next to the cathedral.
It is set about 1 m above ground. Behind the cathedral is a montagnard orphanage, run by wonderful and kind nuns. Here you will always receive a warm welcome and learn something of the culture. With some luck, you may even witness a concert of traditional music and dancing. This is also a place to inquire about any festivals in the surrounding villages.
At Christmas and Easter, there are at least 30,000 montagnards that journey to this provincal capital to participate in the festivities.

To get some entertainment, you could visit the cinema, but I doubt that the movies will be in another language than Vietnamese or perhaps Chinese.

Another form of entertainment and certainly an excellent experience is a visit to the Foreign Language Centre. The students love to talk to foreigners.

Most banks cannot change travellers cheques, but only 50 or 100 USD bills.
Travellers cheques will be changed at Quy Nhon Viet Com Bank. However,
the jewellery shop at the corner near the market will change dollars and give a better rate than the banks.

Montagnard Villages
The region around Kontum is very beautiful and rather free from restricted areas. The best thing is not to ask, but just to go. The local tourist agency does not always deliver and is not recommended.

There are many villages very close to the town, yet maintaining their identity. One hundred years ago, there were no Vietnamese in the area.

Plei Ton Nghia is located near the hospital.

Kon Hra Chot is located about 300 metres down a track opposite the French church.

Kontum Knomh is located 200 m past the Montagnard Cathedral.

Plei Groi / Plei Rohai still has a communal house. Go south over the bridge on the QL 19 for about 1 km turn left at the small petrol/gas station and continue on this track.

Kon Kotu makes a very interesting destination. Go two or three km east from Cafe Eva, cross the suspension bridge and take the track left.
Continue until after a few more km you arrive at a small village called Kon Dra Ji. At the bottom of the slope leading to this village take the track to the left. Consider employing a friendly local as a guide.

Kon Hra Ban has a communal house but it has a tin roof. Go north on the QL 14, turn left past the hospital and keep on this road for a few km. The communal house is by the roadside. If you continue, you will come to Sathay, which has an enormous Vietnamese mock of a communal house. It is 'adorned' with a few sorry looking stuffed animals.

South of Kontum there is Yaly waterfall which is quite powerful. The large construction site and the masses of coke cans and wrappers make the experience less desirable.

Transportation
The bus station is located in the south of Kontum.

Hotels
There are many hotels and guest houses for reasonable prices.
Note: Malaria is a big problem in the area. Make sure you use the mosquito nets in the hotels.

The Hotel Dakbla, named after the river, was completed in 1996. Rooms with hot water and attached bathroom start at USD 9.

Hotel 42 is a USD 5, but the rooms are dirty. Directly opposite is an even cheaper pit for USD 3.

There are two bank guest houses and the guest house of the electric company. Rooms are USD 5.
The government guesthouse has lower quality, but higher prices than the Dakbla.

Restaurants
Kontum's local speciality is Ban Xiao, and there are many places that offer it. Beware that the hygiene is not always of a high standard.

The best place for food is the restaurant Dakbla at 168 Nguyen-Hue Street, about 50 metres from the hotel with the same name. The place is run by Mr. Van who is very convivial and a good drinking partner,
if his wife allows it. You will get all sorts of information at this restaurant. The help is given out of genuine friendlyness, so please don't abuse these peoples good will.

There are many simple, but pleasant garden cafes in the town's side street.

About 2 kilometres east of the town centre on Phan Chu Trinh Street is the Cafe Eva. Its owner, Mr. An is an artist with good taste and consequently, the cafe is attractive and has an interesting interior.

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LAO BAO
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/laobao.htm
Lao Bao is the main overland entrance point to and from Laos. While it has been neglected for a long time, it now starts to become a regular,
often used border crossing with with appropriate facilities.

While the town itself is nothing special, the landscape is beautiful.

From the border, there are many busses to several destinations in Vietnam.

Note: Beware of the money changers at the border. Their rates are ridicilously low (starting at about half the regular rate!!!).

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LONG XUYEN
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/longxuyen.htm
Sights
Catholic Cathedral This is one of the largest Catholic churches in the Delta with a seating capacity of 1,000. It was constructed between 1966 and 1973 with a 164
foot (50-meter) high bell tower in the form of clasped-hands that is visible from outside town.

Quan Thanh Pagoda This small pagoda was built by Cantonese residents about 70 years ago.
With lively murals on the entrance wall the altar displays figures of General Quan Cong and his two cohorts General Chau Xuong and the mandarin Quan Binh. To the left is Ong Bon, Guardian Spirit of Happiness and Virtue, and on the right is Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea.

Dinh Than My Phuoc Pagoda Interesting for its roof and the murals on the wooden walls near the altar.

Cao Dai Church On the outskirts of town traveling towards Chau Doc is a Cao Dai church worth visiting if you can't see the Cao Dai cathedral at Tay Ninh.

Cho Moi District Cross the river from Long Xuyen to see rich groves of banana, durian,
guava, jackfruit, longan, mango, mangosteen, and plum. The women here are said to be the most beautiful in the Mekong Delta.

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MEKONG DELTA
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/mekong.htm
(John) The two-day Mekong Delta tour offered by the Sinh Cafe was about $20 and was particularly good. The guide spoke very good English and was quite knowledgeable about the region. Also, the hotel they were using in early January was the best I stayed in throughout Vietnam. It was so new I could smell the paint.

Eating
In the Mekong Delta one specialty easily obtainable is snake. Some restaurants offer them life, so you can choose and they are certainly fresh. One kilogram should cost around VND 25000 to 35000, cooking between 15000 to 35000. One kg serves four to five persons.

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MYSON
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/myson.htm
The runis of My Son Sanctuary are a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Sights
These Cham ruins are a very beautiful spot to visit. Of course there are some people trying to make money out of you. A taxi or a motorcylce can only go to a small river a bit away from the ruins. There is a ferry and motorcycle transportation service, but it is easy to cross the river a little bit upstream and the walk to the entrance takes only about 20 min.
At the ferry station is a tent from the red cross. They show some ugly photographs from people with wounds inflicted either by mines or the war.
The main goal is to extract money out of the tourist's pockets. Typical for Vietnam, I was not sure if it was real or a scam.

(John) The Cham ruins are nice, but I experienced many hassles upon visiting. I rented a motorcycle for $5 in Hoi An and drove myself to MySon. I bargained the ferry operator from an outrageous $10 to $3 for three people and two motorcycles to cross the pond both ways. Upon parking the motorcycles just before the entrance, we had problems with a guide who did not speak English that insisted we must use a guide to see the ruins. He finally left and stole our gas. We were overcharged by 1000% at the entrance gate, and a begger wanted a toll for crossing a bridge.

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MYTHO
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/mytho.htm
With a population of 100'000, My Tho is the capital of Tien Giang Province, a region famous for its orchids, coconut palms, and fruit. The city was founded in the 1680s by political refugees from Taiwan. The economy of the area is based on fishing and the cultivation of rice, bananas, citrus fruit, coconuts, longans, and mangos.

Sights
My Tho Church Built almost a century ago, today two priests, two sisters and several assistants minister to much of My Tho's 7,000 Catholics. The pastel yellow and white church is on the corner of Nguyen Trai Street and Hung Vuong Boulevard, a 5 minute walk from the central market. It is open to visitors every day from 4:30 - 6:30 am and 2:30 - 6:30 pm.

Central Market Sprawls over a large area from Le Loi Boulevard down to the river. The streets are filled with stalls selling everything from fresh food and bulk tobacco to boat propellers. The river is the best spot to observe life in My Tho.

Vinh Trang Pagoda Built in 1849, the pagoda displays a mixture of Chinese, Vietnamese and colonial architecture. It is now a beautiful place, with no signs of the touristy stuff described in the Loney Planet guide. Even the awful Ho Chi Minh statue has been removed.

Tan Long Island Tan Long Island is renowned for its longan orchards. It can be reached with a 5-minute boat trip from the dock at the foot of Le Loi Boulevard. Wooden fishing boats of the type used by the 'boat people'
to flee Vietnam, line the thick palm-fringed shores of the island.

Island of the Coconut Monk (Con Phung)
Ong Dao Dua, the 'Coconut Monk,' established a bizarre open-air sanctuary on this island for his followers shortly after the end of WW II.
Snake Farm About 6 miles (10 km) from town at Dong Tam there is farm that raises snakes for the strong healing powers of their flesh and gall.

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NHA TRANG
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/nhatrang.htm
This is the main beach town in Vietnam.

Sights
The cultural sights, the Cham towers and the Pagoda with the giant sitting buddha were nice, but there were so many beggars that one couldn't really enjoy them. Also, it is advisable not to go at a time when there is a cruise ship in the harbour. Entrance is VND 5000.

About 500 meters upriver from the Cham towers is a shipyard. The staff there is friendly enough to let people wander around and see how ships are constructed in a traditional way. Be friendly and do not take this courtesy as granted, in most western country people would not be allowed into a shipyard.

The fishing village south of Nha Trang is nice, but there are a lot of souvenir shops. The oceanographic institute is worth a visit.

Boat Tours
There are some people offering a boat trip for USD 7. This trip is very good value for money. Starting in the morning (around 8:30) you are taken to a place where you can swim and snorkel (use of equipment is free). Near noon we drove to a second place and while we went for some more swimming and snorkling (although since the equipment is poor and there is not enough for all people you should bring your own), a excellent lunch was prepared. There were crabs, shrimps, several kinds of fish, vegetables, noodles, everything fresh and delicious. The lunch alone would have cost much more than the price of the trip in a restaurant. In the afternoon we stopped at a beach on an island where a buffet of fresh local fruit was built up. Of course we had some more time for swimming. On the way back we stopped at a small fishing village. The usual return time is 16:30.

Diving
Nha Trang offers excellent places for snorkelling and scuba diving.
Some 70 islands and rocky shores are easily accessible witha boat.
Depth is usually less than 20 m, with little undercurrents. Up to 12 m there are all kinds of corals, later its sand and rocks. Coral fish shine in beuatiful colours. Don't expect large swarms of fish, since overfishing reduced their numbers. There are nearly no wracks, because metal is valuable and salvaged as soon as possible.

The best time for diving in Nha Trang is between February and October with air temperatures between 25 and 35 degrees, and water temperature between 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.Equipment can be rented from several places, e.g. the Bao Dai Villas.

There are several dive clubs where you can get information and rent equipment:
Center of Diving Tourist Services (Trung Tam Dich Vu Du Lich Lan),
Tran Phu Boulevard Coconut Cove Resort, Opp40 Tran Phu Boulevard, Tel 825390, Fax 824214
The Sailing Club, 72, Tran Phu Boulevard, Tel 829946, 813788, Fax 811223.
Has a Padi instructor, Mr. J. Stein Octopus Dive Club, 62 Tran Phu Boulevard Bao Dai Villas
Climate
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Sunrise C 20 22 26 28 30 30 32 31 28 26 20 19
F 68 72 79 82 86 86 90 88 82 79 68 66

Afternoon C 24 25 28 29 32 32 34 34 30 28 22 22
F 75 77 82 84 90 90 93 93 86 82 72 72

Rain mm 230 130 110 60 40 45 135 120 125 170 320 300

humidity % 68 60 59 58 56 57 65 63 63 64 71 70

Transportation
A car costs USD 30 to USD 46 to rent, depending on where you rent the car, quality, distance you intend to travel, bargaining luck, etc.

A motorcycle costs around USD 5 to 7 for 8 hours. Fuel is not included.

The airport departure tax is VND 10000.

Hotels
Ana Mandara Resort, Beachside Tran Phu BlvdRates: USD 133-404, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/VietNam/nha_trang/Ana_Mandara_Resort.asp

Nha Trang Lodge, 42 Tran Phu StreetRates: USD 52-156, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/VietNam/nha_trang/Nha_Trang_Lodge_Hotel.asp

Vien Dong Hotel , 1 Tran Hung DaoRates: USD 30-63, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/VietNam/nha_trang/Vien_Dong_Hotel.asp

Yasaka Saigon Nha Trang Hotel, 18 Tran Phu Street,Rates: USD 49-127, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/VietNam/nha_trang/Yasaka_Saigon_Nha_Trang_Hotel.asp

Restaurants
Nha Trangs speciality is seafood. It is comparatively cheap and everywhere fresh available.

Recommended is the Van Canh at 54 Phan Chu Trinh. This family restaurant offers excellent food and good, friendly service.

(Lotta and Johan) Banana Split cafe is a good travellers cafe. Note that the cafe next door, to the left, previously called 60's bar,
thought the secret of success was in the name, and changed 60's bar to... Banana Split cafe! When we were there, all the people were in the real Banana Split, and the owners of "fake banana" yelled at passing tourists to get customers. (Banana Split is at 58 Quang Trung Street)

A cheap, friendly place is Quan An 98 at 98 Hoang Van Thu. They offer mostly delicious noodle soup.

Another good place are the restaurants on the sea shore oposite Haiyan hotel, but they are definitely much pricier.

An excellent restaurant is Hoan Hai at 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Tel 823133.
The prices are reasonable.

A nice place is the restaurant just next to the jetty in the fishing village south of Nha Trang.

The vegetarian restuarant mentioned in the lonely planet guide near the circle market cooks an excellent (and exotic) Banana Flower.

The only place with some kind of night life in Nha Trang is the Lizard.

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NINH BINH
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/ninhbinh.htm
Ninh Binh is a good place for an overnight stop on the way between Hanoi and Hue.

Sights
A small walk of a quarter of an hour up the small mountain to the Bich Dong Pagoda lets you enjoy a nice view of Hoa Lu. Some people may want to charge you VND 10000, but this is only for the boat.

The Tam Toc Caves are worth a visit. It is only 12 km from the village, so you can rent a bike for some VND 5000 to 10000. Another possibility is to combine the caves with a boat trip to Hoa Lu. The boat is VND 25000.

Cuc Phuong makes for good walking.

Hotels
The Than Thuy's Guest House at 128 Le Hong Phong Street offers simple but clean double rooms for USD 8. Its owner speaks English and German, having spent four years in Germany. He is very helpful giving advice on what to do and which places to avoid. There is a restaurant attached.

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PHAN RANG
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/phanrang.htm
Phan Rang offers not more than the Po Klaung Gerai Cham towers. They are about 7 km outside the town towards Dalat. Admission is VND 5000. A ride on a motorbike should be about VND 5000, after hard bargaining and one way only. Usually, the tourist minibusses stop on their way between Dalat and Nha Trang.

Hotels
The Khach San Phan Rang at 354 Thong Nhat Street near the bus terminal offers terrible rooms for USD 8.

The Huu Nghi at Thong Nhat Street has rooms for USD 15. Tel 22721,
Fax 22722.

There are several hotels with rooms for USD 30 or more.

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PHAN THIET
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/phanthiet.htm
Phan Thiet is a town of abou 100'000 inhabitants with a large fishing industry. Located 20 km from the ocean, the Ca Ty river near the town is full of fishing boats during the fishing season in summer. The fishing industry causes the pungent odor caused by the production of Nuoc Mam, the famous fish sauce.

Sights
There is not much to see in Phan Thiet. The main reason to come here is to play golf.

A nice place is the fishing village just next to the river.

Beaches
Bai Rang The most beautiful beach in Phan Thiet is some 15 km northeast of the city. Two famous landmarks bear the names Da Ong Dia (Boulders of the Earth God) and Suoi Tien (Celestial Stream).

Mui Ne Sand Dunes More famous are the Mui Ne Sand Dunes and Mui Ne Beaches, 12 km to the East.

Golf
The Ocean Dunes Golf Club, designed by Nick Faldo, offers 6746 yards of seaside dunes. The course has 72 par. The course is owned by a US company.

Hotels
Bamboo Village Seaside Resort, Km 11.8, Ham TienRates: USD 52-72, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/VietNam/Phan_Thiet/Bamboo_Village_Seaside_Resort.asp

Coco Beach Hai Duong Resort, km 12.5 Ham Tien, Village 3Rates: USD 64-163, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Phan_Thiet/Coco_Beach-Hai_Duong_Resort.asp

Novotel Ocean Dunes Resort , Km 11.8, Ham TienRates: USD 44-294, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Phan_Thiet/Novotel_Coralia_Ocean_Dune_Resort.asp

Palmira Resort , Km 11, Ham Tien, Village 3Rates: USD 46.8, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Phan_Thiet/Palmira_Resort.asp

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort , Km 9 Phu Hai, Phan ThietRates: USD 78-228, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Phan_Thiet/Victoria_Phan_Thiet_Resort.asp

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PHONG NHA CAVES
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/phongnha.htm
The Phong Nha Caves, also called Troc Caves, are located in Quang Binh province. So far, 14 caves have been discovered in the area. The whole system measures several thousand meters of underground passageways and includes a wide variety of stalactites and stalagmites. The main hall is about 1450 m long and consists of 14 halls. The system has the longest underground river in the world.

During the 9th and 10th century, the Chams used the caves as a Buddhist sanctuary. There are still some Cham altars and inscription to be seen. Local Vietnamese still use these sites, as they do at many other Cham locations.

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PHU QUOC
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/phuquoc.htm
Only a few tourists venture this far in Vietnam. There are nice beaches and the sea is calm and clear.

Hotels
The Hoang Bien Hotel in Duong Dong is government run and located directly at the beach. Doubles with private bath are VND 150000.

About 2 km south of Duong Dong is a new private place, the Kim Linh Hotel.
Nice and clean rooms cost VND 120000. There are two restaurants on the beach. One of the staff, Tony, speaks very good English and knows a lot about the island.

Saigon Phu Quoc Hotel, has rooms for USD from 128. http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/other_cities/other_cities_hotel_byPrice.asp

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PLEIKU
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/pleiku.htm
Hill Tribes
There are hill tribe villages throughout the Central Highlands around Pleiku. The only legal way to visit one of these villages is on an arranged tour (ask at the Pleiku Hotel). You can walk into any of the hill tribe villages you pass by on the highway, and the villagers will be very receptive and friendly but be advised that this is illegal. All of the villages around Pleiku have large signs posted saying "restricted area, no tresspassing", in English in big bold letters. It is clear that the Vietnamese government does not want foreigners in close unsupervised contact with hill tribes. Perhaps the reason for their nervousness is the fact that during the war, the hill tribes here received military training and equipment from US Army Special Forces, which made life difficult for invading North Vietnamese Army troops.

Hotels
The large Pleiku Hotel has nice rooms for USD 11. The staff here are very helpful, particularly the staff in the hotel restaurant. There was a renovation project taking place here in early 1995 so prices may go up.

The Movie Star Hotel is not exactly a place to be safe: all the room keys work in every door.

Tours
You can visit the former US special forces base at Plei Me but it is only accessible by motor bike and it is a long haul (20 km road and 20 km on a very dusty trail). Ask the staff at the Pleiku Hotel about arranging the rental of motor bikes and hiring a guide.

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QUANG NAM
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/vietnam/places/quangnam.htm
Hai Yen Hotel, 22 Cua Dai Street, Hoi AnRates: USD 30-69, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hoi_An/Hai_Yen_Hotel.asp

Hoi An Beach Resort , Cua Dai Beach, Hoi AnRates: USD 72-177, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hoi_An/Hoi_An_Beach_Resort.asp

Hoi An Hotel , 6 Tran Hung Dao Street, Hoi AnRates: USD 49-104, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hoi_An/Hoi_An_Hotel.asp

Vinh Hung, Nhi Trung Street, Hoi AnRates: USD 30-45, http://www.planetholiday.com/a.asp?pholiday&1267&Hotels/Vietnam/Hoi_An/Vinh_Hung_2_Hotel.asp

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VIETNAM - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide
Copyright (c) 1995 - 2003, Peter M. Geiser
http://www.pmgeiser.ch http://www.pmgeiser.com http://www.mineralwaters.org http://www.dussy.ch
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